On the road in the valley of bubbles among villages, sculptures by Canova, cellars. With an aftertaste of UNESCO heritage.

by Beba Marsano

Drink with your eyes. Get drunk on that landscape “handmade” and embroidered in rows by centuries-old work, a candidate for UNESCO world heritage and furrowed by Italy’s oldest wine route: the Prosecco Route, 50 years old today. A route of 120 km, enriched in itineraries that climb the hills from Conegliano to Valdobbiadene, between vineyards with extreme slopes, cellars, solitary parishes, tiny inhabited areas of ancient beauty. Like Follina, with his mystical Cistercian abbey (theater on 11 November of the traditional concert by Uto Ughi, concertoutoughi.it), and Rolle, “a postcard sent by the gods”, as the poet Andrea Zanzotto said.

A scene of sweetness transfigured in the backgrounds of Giorgione, Tiziano and Cima da Conegliano that, in the cathedral of the village of which it bears the name, has left one of the most beautiful altarpieces (1492). A magical corner of Veneto to be discovered at an extremely slow pace. Alternating selfies with views from which you can lose your gaze (San Pietro di Barbozza, in the heart of the prized Cartizze) at gluttonous stops. Where to combine the versatile bubbles of the “Italian Champagne” exported to over 80 countries in the world, to local delicacies such as the grilled Valdobbiadene soppressa, the Alta Marca spits, the Pedemontana Trevigiana cheeses and those real autumn delights that they are the browns of Combai, protagonists as of or until the 1st of November of a kermesse well done, between taste, show and nature. Other inevitable stages: Asolo, «city of a hundred horizons», an elected destination for artists (such as Eleonora Duse, buried here) and travelers, every second Sunday of the month the site of a noble antique market, and Possagno, the cradle of Antonio Canova, where one goes only for the Gipsoteca (museocanova.it), where over 360 original plaster works are kept, which on special days can be visited at night.

Villa Barberina
via Roma, 2 Valdobbiadene (Tv) tel. 0423 972479 www.villabarberina.it
Double b&b from 175 euros Wine resort in an eighteenth-century villa. Centuries-old park with statues and fountains.

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